Facial piercing anatomy is often overlooked
Lip and septum piercings are often booked without much attention to anatomy, which leads to piercings that migrate, cause dental problems, or simply do not sit as expected. Both piercing types depend on specific facial features that vary substantially between individuals. This guide covers how to assess your own anatomy before booking a lip or septum piercing, what a piercer will examine, and what alternatives exist when your specific anatomy does not support the piercing you had in mind.
Lip piercing anatomy
Lip piercings cover several distinct positions: labret (below the centre of the lower lip), Monroe (above the upper lip on one side), Medusa (centre above the upper lip), snake bites (paired lower lip piercings), vertical labret (through the lower lip), and smiley (through the upper lip frenulum inside the mouth). Each requires different anatomy.
Lip thickness
• Fuller lips generally have more tissue to work with and hold jewellery more comfortably
• Very thin lips can be pierced but jewellery choice matters more, smaller pieces reduce strain
• The specific piercing type matters: labret piercings sit below the lip so lip thickness matters less, vertical labret piercings go through the lip so thickness matters directly
Teeth and gum line
• The inside of a lip piercing sits against your teeth and gums
• Piercings that press against teeth can cause enamel wear and gum recession over years
• Placement and jewellery choice can minimise this, but some anatomy makes the risk unavoidable
• A piercer should look at your teeth and gum line before agreeing to a lip piercing, this affects placement decisions
Frenulum for smiley piercings
• The smiley piercing passes through the upper lip frenulum (the small strip of tissue connecting your upper lip to your gum)
• Frenulum size varies enormously, some people have prominent frenulums that support the piercing, some have very small or almost absent frenulums that cannot
• Self-check, pull your upper lip up and look at the tissue connecting lip to gum, is it a defined strip or barely visible
• Even suitable smiley piercings have short lifespans (often 1 to 3 years) due to constant friction against teeth
Mentalis muscle position
• For centre labret piercings, the mentalis muscle underneath affects how the piercing sits when you smile, speak, and move your face
• Some placements interact awkwardly with muscle movement, causing the piercing to shift visibly
• A piercer will assess placement with your face at rest and in movement
Septum piercing anatomy
The septum piercing passes through the columella, the soft tissue at the base of the nasal septum, just before the harder cartilage begins. This specific spot is called the sweet spot by piercers.
The sweet spot
• A small band of soft tissue just below the septum cartilage
• Piercing through this spot is comfortable and heals well
• Piercing through the cartilage itself (a common amateur mistake) causes significantly more pain and complications
• The sweet spot varies in prominence, some people have a clear defined band, some have very little soft tissue before cartilage
Septum deviation
• A deviated septum (where the nasal septum leans to one side rather than sitting midline) can affect piercing placement
• Mild deviation is common and usually does not prevent septum piercing
• Significant deviation may require adjusted placement or make the piercing look asymmetrical
• A piercer will assess deviation during consultation and discuss how it affects placement
Nostril width and shape
• Septum jewellery hangs between the two nostrils
• The width of your nostrils affects which jewellery diameters work
• Narrow nostril spacing requires smaller ring diameters, wider spacing accommodates larger jewellery
• A piercer will measure or estimate your specific spacing
Cartilage sensitivity
• Septum piercings that catch the cartilage (rather than passing purely through soft tissue) hurt significantly more
• Skilled piercers avoid this by locating the sweet spot precisely
• If a piercer wants to pierce anywhere other than the sweet spot, get a second opinion
Self-assessment
For lip piercings
1. Look at your lips in the mirror straight on and in profile.
2. Assess your lip thickness, particularly the lip you are considering piercing.
3. Look at your teeth from the inside, using a small hand mirror. Are they positioned in a way that a lip piercing sitting inside your mouth would press against them constantly?
4. Check your gum line, is there any existing recession or gum sensitivity that would be worsened by piercing pressure?
5. For smiley piercings specifically, pull your upper lip up and check whether you have a prominent frenulum or barely visible tissue.
6. Smile widely and observe how your lip area moves, this is how the piercing will sit in expressive positions, not just at rest.
For septum piercings
7. Look at your face straight on in the mirror.
8. Tip your head slightly back and look at the underside of your nose.
9. Look at the septum, the wall separating your two nostrils.
10. Can you see or feel a soft area just below where the harder cartilage of the septum ends? This is where the sweet spot should be.
11. Check whether your septum sits midline or deviates noticeably to one side.
12. Compare the two nostrils, are they symmetrical or does one sit differently?
13. Measure roughly the distance between your two nostrils, this affects jewellery diameter choice.
What piercers assess
The lip and septum consultation
For lip piercings, a good piercer will look at the lip itself, examine your teeth and gum line (asking you to open your mouth), consider placement in relation to muscle movement (asking you to speak, smile, and move your face), and discuss jewellery options that minimise dental contact. For septum piercings, they will use a fine tool to feel the sweet spot, assess septum deviation and nostril symmetry, and measure spacing between nostrils. Both piercings should be marked with a pen and shown to you before proceeding. A piercer who books lip or septum piercings without any physical examination is not conducting a proper consultation.
Common anatomy issues
Lip piercings that will not work well
• Prominent teeth positioned to constantly press against inside piercing
• Existing gum recession that would be worsened by piercing pressure
• Very thin lips that cannot safely support certain jewellery types
• Missing or very small frenulum for smiley piercings
• Recent or planned dental work in the area (braces, veneers, implants)
Septum piercings that will not work well
• Sweet spot absent or very small, jewellery would need to sit in cartilage
• Significant septum deviation making placement asymmetrical
• Very narrow nostrils spacing that would not accommodate standard jewellery
• Previous nasal surgery that affects septum structure
• Chronic sinus issues that could complicate healing
Alternatives when anatomy is not ideal
• If teeth make lip piercings risky, consider ear or nostril piercings for a similar facial focal point
• If frenulum is not there for smiley, standard labret piercings can achieve some visual similarity
• If septum sweet spot is not accessible, consider high nostril or bridge piercings for alternative nose placement
• If lip is too thin for planned jewellery, smaller and lighter pieces may still work
• Discuss alternatives with your piercer during consultation, most have suggestions for anatomy that does not fit the standard version
Shop the look
Internal links
• Piercing anatomy and suitability, complete guide
• Nostril anatomy and placement
• Oral anatomy and tongue piercings
• The complete guide to lip and oral piercings
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I know if my anatomy works for a labret piercing?
Check three things. First, lip thickness and general shape (a piercer will examine and place accordingly). Second, teeth positioning and gum line (the piercing sits against these inside the mouth, so anatomy matters for long-term dental health). Third, muscle movement (how your lip moves when you speak, smile, and eat affects how the piercing sits). Most people have anatomy that supports standard labret piercings, but placement varies. Consultation with a piercer who examines your teeth and gum line is essential.
What is the sweet spot for septum piercings?
The sweet spot is a small band of soft tissue at the base of the nasal septum, just below where the harder cartilage begins. Piercing through the sweet spot is comfortable and heals predictably. Piercing through the cartilage itself (a common amateur error) causes significantly more pain and complications. The sweet spot varies in prominence between individuals, some people have a clearly defined band, some have very little soft tissue before cartilage. A skilled piercer will locate the sweet spot precisely before proceeding.
Will a lip piercing damage my teeth?
Potentially yes, over years of wear. Lip piercings sit against your teeth and gums from the inside. Constant contact can cause enamel wear on the outer surface of teeth and gum recession where jewellery presses. The risk depends on your specific anatomy (teeth positioning), the placement chosen, and the jewellery worn (smaller and lighter pieces reduce risk). Regular dental checkups are important for lip piercing wearers. Some anatomy makes dental damage essentially unavoidable, in which case a different piercing may be better.
Can everyone get a septum piercing?
Most people, yes. Septum piercings work for the majority of nasal anatomy when placed correctly at the sweet spot. Situations that may prevent septum piercing include absent or very small sweet spot (soft tissue insufficient), significant septum deviation that would make placement asymmetrical, previous nasal surgery affecting septum structure, or chronic sinus issues. A piercer must physically examine your septum during consultation to confirm suitability.
How do I check my septum sweet spot myself?
Look at the underside of your nose in a mirror by tipping your head slightly back. Look at the septum wall between your nostrils. Feel gently just below where the septum cartilage ends, is there a small area of softer tissue? This is where the sweet spot should be. Do not try to precisely locate it yourself, this is the piercer's job during consultation. If you cannot detect any soft area at all before hitting cartilage, this may signal that septum piercing is not feasible on your anatomy.
What if I have crooked teeth, can I still get a lip piercing?
Depends on the specific tooth positioning. Front teeth that jut forward or point at unusual angles increase the contact between piercing and tooth surface, which increases enamel wear risk. Well-aligned teeth reduce contact and reduce risk. Recent orthodontic work (braces recently removed) sometimes leaves teeth positioned differently than they will settle over the following year, wait at least 6 months after brace removal before booking a lip piercing. Discuss with both your piercer and your dentist if you have significant concerns.
Can I get a smiley piercing if I do not have a visible frenulum?
No. The smiley piercing passes through the upper lip frenulum, the tissue strip connecting your upper lip to your gum. If your frenulum is absent, very small, or barely defined, smiley piercing is not feasible. Some people naturally have very small or absent frenulums, particularly after childhood frenulum surgeries or genetic variation. Check by pulling your upper lip up gently and looking at the tissue behind. If there is no clearly defined strip, choose a different piercing.