Not all gemstones are equal
Piercing jewellery with set gemstones presents a more complex care challenge than plain metal pieces. Different gemstones have radically different hardness, porosity, chemical sensitivity, and durability. Cleaning that's perfectly fine for a diamond-set piece can destroy an opal-set piece. Storage that works for solid gemstones can damage soft or organic gemstones. Understanding which gem is in your piece is the prerequisite for caring for it properly.
This guide covers the most common gemstones used in piercing jewellery natural diamonds, lab-grown diamonds, cubic zirconia (CZ), opals, sapphires, rubies, emeralds, pearls, and a few others with specific care guidance for each. The hardness, the cleaning approach, the storage requirements, and the activities to avoid all vary substantially by stone type.
The hardness factor
Gemstone hardness is measured on the Mohs scale (1–10). Higher numbers are harder. The hardness determines how a stone responds to abrasion, ultrasonic cleaning, and storage contact with other pieces.
| Gemstone | Mohs hardness | Care category |
|---|---|---|
| Diamond (natural or lab-grown) | 10 | Most durable — minimal care concerns |
| Sapphire / Ruby | 9 | Very durable — most cleaning methods safe |
| Topaz | 8 | Durable — most cleaning methods safe |
| Quartz / Citrine / Amethyst | 7 | Moderately durable — gentler cleaning |
| Cubic Zirconia (CZ) | 8–8.5 | Durable — but plated stones may have issues |
| Moissanite | 9.25 | Very durable — diamond-like care |
| Opal | 5.5–6.5 | Soft and porous — special care required |
| Pearl | 2.5–4.5 | Very soft and porous — extremely delicate |
| Turquoise | 5–6 | Soft and porous — gentle care only |
Caring for diamond-set piercing jewellery
Natural and lab-grown diamonds are functionally identical for care purposes. Both are hardness 10 the hardest of any common gemstone and are essentially indestructible under normal jewellery wear and cleaning.
• Cleaning: same as plain metal jewellery warm soapy water and gentle brushing
• Ultrasonic cleaning: safe at moderate intensity for short cycles
• Storage: separate compartment or pouch (diamonds can scratch other gemstones in storage even though they themselves don't scratch)
• Activities to avoid: nothing specific for the diamond the metal setting may need protection but the stone itself is durable
• Cleaning frequency: as needed; diamonds resist contamination
The setting matters more than the stone for diamond-set piercing jewellery. Claw-set diamonds need occasional inspection of the claws (small bent or damaged claws can release stones); bezel-set diamonds are generally more durable to setting damage. The cluster guide on settings (in the advanced gemstones pillar) covers this in detail.
Caring for sapphire and ruby pieces
Sapphires and rubies are both corundum (Mohs 9) extremely durable, second only to diamonds. Care is essentially the same as for diamonds with one note: heat-treated sapphires (very common in modern jewellery) can occasionally have stability issues from rapid temperature changes.
• Cleaning: warm soapy water, gentle brushing; safe with ultrasonic cleaning at moderate intensity
• Storage: separate compartments to prevent scratching softer stones
• Activities to avoid: rapid temperature changes (don't take a piece from cold water directly into hot water or vice versa)
• Cleaning frequency: as needed
Caring for opal pieces
Opals are special and special-care
Opals are unique among common gemstones for piercing jewellery. They're soft (Mohs 5.5–6.5, similar to glass), porous, and contain water as part of their structure (3–21% water by weight). All three properties mean opals need very different care than harder stones. Following the wrong care advice can permanently damage an opal and unlike scratched titanium, damaged opals cannot be polished out.
Opal care principles:
• Cleaning: damp soft cloth only never soak opals in any liquid, including soapy water
• Ultrasonic cleaning: absolutely never vibrations cause cracking
• Storage: separate, padded, in moderate humidity environment (very dry environments can cause opals to crack from moisture loss; very humid environments are also problematic)
• Activities to avoid: swimming (chlorine and saltwater damage opals), exposure to harsh chemicals, rapid temperature changes, prolonged sun exposure (UV can affect opal colour over years)
• Cleaning frequency: only when visibly needed; minimise cleaning to reduce risk
If you have opal-set piercing jewellery, the conservative approach is: remove for swimming, remove for sleep (pressure on opal pieces can chip them), remove for any activity involving chemicals or temperature changes, and store in a separate padded compartment away from other pieces.
Caring for cubic zirconia (CZ) pieces
CZ is a synthetic stone that visually resembles diamond. Modern quality CZ is hardness 8–8.5 — very durable — but has some unique considerations:
• Cleaning: warm soapy water, gentle brushing; safe with most cleaning methods
• CZ stones in coloured varieties (yellow, pink, blue CZ) may have applied coatings that affect colour — clean gently to preserve these
• Storage: separate compartments; CZ scratches other CZ over time even though both are hard
• Activities to avoid: harsh chemicals can affect any coatings on coloured CZ
• Cleaning frequency: regular cleaning prevents the cloudy buildup that can make CZ look less brilliant over time
Note: CZ that's been mounted in piercing jewellery can sometimes loosen in its setting over time, particularly if glue-set rather than claw-set. Inspect periodically for stones that feel loose to gentle pressure.
Caring for pearl pieces
Pearls (where used in piercing jewellery typically as small pearls in clickers or decorative tops) are extremely delicate. Mohs hardness 2.5–4.5 makes them softer than even a fingernail. Pearls are also porous and chemically sensitive.
• Cleaning: damp soft cloth only never soak
• Ultrasonic cleaning: absolutely never
• Storage: separate, in a soft pouch, with anti-tarnish protection (pearls can be affected by sulfur in the air)
• Activities to avoid: anything cosmetic pearls absorb perfume, hair spray, makeup, and sweat. Always put pearls on last after applying other products
• Cleaning frequency: gentle wipe after each wear; never deeper cleaning unless absolutely necessary
Pearls in piercing jewellery have a meaningfully shorter useful life than other gemstone types typically 5–10 years of regular wear before showing visible degradation. They are luxury items that demand specific care.
Universal gemstone care rules
• When in doubt, treat any gemstone-set piece as if the stone were softer than it is gentle care doesn't harm hard stones; aggressive care damages soft ones
• Always put jewellery on after applying any beauty products, never before
• Remove gemstone-set pieces before swimming, exercise (heavy sweat), and activities that involve chemical exposure
• Store gemstone-set pieces in individual compartments every stone, regardless of hardness, can be damaged by contact with harder stones or by being struck by other pieces in storage
• Inspect settings periodically a loose stone is a lost stone eventually
• Avoid ultrasonic cleaning for any pieces with glued stones (most decorative cluster pieces use some adhesive even when claws are visible)
Shop the look
• Hoops and clickers (often gemstone-set)
Internal links
• How to clean titanium piercing jewellery
• Storing piercing jewellery properly
• Restoring tarnished or dulled jewellery
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use an ultrasonic cleaner on gemstone piercing jewellery?
Depends on the gemstone. Safe for diamonds, sapphires, rubies, and high-quality CZ at moderate intensity. NEVER safe for opals (causes cracking), pearls (causes damage), turquoise (porous, absorbs chemicals from the cleaner), or any glue-set stones (vibration loosens adhesive). When in doubt about a piece, skip ultrasonic cleaning and use the gentler soap-and-warm-water method instead.
How do I clean an opal piercing piece?
Damp soft cloth only never soak opals in any liquid. Opals are soft (Mohs 5.5–6.5), porous, and contain water as part of their structure. Soaking can affect this water content; ultrasonic cleaning causes cracking; harsh chemicals damage the surface. Wipe gently with a barely-damp cloth, dry immediately with a soft dry cloth, and store separately in a padded compartment. Opals demand the most conservative care of any common piercing gemstone.
Are diamonds in piercing jewellery indestructible?
The diamond itself essentially is Mohs 10 is the hardest natural material. But the setting that holds the diamond is not indestructible. Claw-set diamonds can lose stones if the claws bend or wear. Glue-set diamonds (sometimes used in clusters) can lose stones if the glue fails. Inspect settings periodically. The stone won't break, but it can come out.
Can I sleep in pearl piercing jewellery?
Better not. Pearls are very soft (Mohs 2.5–4.5) softer than a fingernail. Sleeping on a pearl piece can scratch the pearl surface against pillow textures, and the pressure can chip pearls over time. Pearls also absorb skin oils overnight, which gradually dulls their lustre. Remove pearl pieces before sleeping and store them in a soft pouch. Pearls in piercing jewellery are luxury items that genuinely need this level of care.
How can I tell if my gemstones are loose in their settings?
Use a sewing needle or toothpick to gently press the stone in different directions. A securely set stone moves not at all; a loose stone has visible play or 'wobble.' Listen als a loose stone often rattles slightly when the piece is shaken near the ear. Loose stones should be re-set by a professional jeweller before they're lost. Most piercing jewellery sellers offer this service or can recommend a jeweller.
Will chlorine damage gemstones in my piercing jewellery?
Yes, for several common stones. Chlorine actively damages opals (surface and structural damage), pearls (etches the surface), turquoise (causes discolouration), and emeralds (affects the oils used in fracture filling, common in commercial emeralds). Diamonds and sapphires are chemically resistant to chlorine but the metal setting may still be affected. Safe approach: remove gemstone-set pieces before pool swimming. For ocean swimming, saltwater is less harsh than chlorinated water but still warrants removal of delicate gemstone pieces.
What's the most fragile gemstone in piercing jewellery?
Pearls (Mohs 2.5–4.5) are technically the softest, requiring the most conservative care. However, opals are arguably the most demanding because they combine softness with chemical sensitivity, porosity, and structural water content meaning opal damage can be more catastrophic than pearl damage. For practical purposes, treat both pearls and opals as 'requires special care' and you'll preserve them properly. Both are luxury items that demand luxury care