16G, 8mm internally threaded labret with a 4mm flat back disc." If that sentence reads like a foreign language, you are not alone. This guide gives you everything you need to read a specification correctly and order with confidence.
Piercing jewellery sizes have three measurements that matter: gauge (the bar thickness, usually in G or mm), length (for straight bars and labrets), and inner diameter (for hoops and rings). Standard gauges are 18G (1.0mm), 16G (1.2mm) and 14G (1.6mm). Always match the gauge of your existing piercing.
Gauge: The Most Important Measurement
Gauge (G) refers to the thickness of the bar that goes through your skin. It uses the American Wire Gauge system, which is counter-intuitive: the higher the number, the thinner the bar.
| Gauge (G) | Millimetres | Typical Use |
|---|---|---|
| 20G | 0.8 mm | Some nostril piercings (rare in EU) |
| 18G | 1.0 mm | Nostril, fine ear cartilage |
| 16G | 1.2 mm | Helix, tragus, lip, eyebrow (most common) |
| 14G | 1.6 mm | Navel, nipple, septum |
| 12G | 2.0 mm | Stretched ear, some nipple |
| 10G | 2.4 mm | Stretched ear, large gauge |
| 8G | 3.2 mm | Stretched ear / lobe |
| 6G | 4.0 mm | Stretched ear / lobe |
| 0G | 8.0 mm | Significantly stretched |
If your piercing was done in Europe, the piercer probably used millimetres directly. North American studios more commonly use the G system. Both are correct — just convert before ordering.
How to Find Your Gauge
• Check the studio's records or ask your piercer
• Bring a current piece of jewellery to the studio for measurement
• Use a digital caliper at home (measure across the bar at the thickest point)
Never assume. Going one gauge thinner can cause the jewellery to migrate or sink; going one gauge thicker will not fit at all without stretching.
Length: For Bars and Labrets
Length is measured along the wearable section of the bar — the part that sits inside your piercing channel, between the two ends. It is given in millimetres.
| Location | Typical Initial | Typical Healed |
|---|---|---|
| Helix | 8–10 mm | 6–8 mm |
| Tragus | 8 mm | 6 mm |
| Conch | 8–10 mm | 6–8 mm |
| Nostril (labret) | 8 mm | 6–8 mm |
| Septum | 8–10 mm | 8–10 mm |
| Labret / Lip | 8–10 mm | 6–8 mm |
| Tongue | 16 mm | 14 mm |
| Nipple | 14–16 mm | 12–14 mm |
| Navel | 10 mm | 10 mm |
| Eyebrow | 8 mm | 8 mm |
These are starting points, not absolutes. Anatomy varies; your piercer will choose the correct length based on the thickness of the tissue at your specific site.
Diameter: For Hoops and Rings
Diameter is measured across the inside of the ring — the inner diameter (ID), not the outer diameter. A 10mm ring has 10mm of clear space inside the hoop.
Common diameters by location
| Location | Typical Diameter | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Helix | 8–10 mm | Larger looks more visible |
| Daith | 8 mm | Sits inside fold of cartilage |
| Septum | 8–10 mm | Visible drop below the nostril |
| Nostril | 8 mm | For nose ring style |
| Lobe | 10–14 mm | Personal preference |
| Tragus | 6–8 mm | Tight fit due to anatomy |
| Forward Helix | 6–8 mm | Small space |
Reading a Full Specification
"Implant Grade Titanium ASTM F-136, 16G (1.2mm) × 8mm internally threaded labret, 4mm zirconia top."
• Material: Implant-grade titanium F-136
• Gauge (bar thickness): 1.2 mm
• Wearable length: 8 mm
• Threading: Internal (smooth bar)
• Decoration: 4mm zirconia top
Read more: Internally Threaded vs Externally Threaded and Titanium Piercing Jewellery: The Complete Material Guide
What Happens if I Get the Size Wrong?
Wrong Gauge
Too thin: jewellery moves around in the channel, causing irritation and possible migration. Too thick: simply will not fit, and forcing it can re-injure the piercing.
Wrong Length
Too long: the bar wobbles, bumps catch on it. Too short: the ends press into the skin, can become embedded. Always err slightly longer for fresh piercings.
Wrong Diameter
Too small: the ring digs into the skin. Too large: the ring hangs awkwardly and snags more easily.
Frequently Asked Questions
What gauge is a standard ear piercing?
Most lobe piercings done with a needle use 16G (1.2mm). Gun-pierced lobes are sometimes 18G (1.0mm) or finer, which is why gun piercings are not recommended.
Can I downsize my jewellery?
Yes. Once your piercing is healed and swelling has resolved (typically 6–12 weeks for soft tissue, longer for cartilage), a piercer can swap the longer initial bar for a shorter, more comfortable healed-fit length.
How do I measure a hoop diameter?
Lay the hoop flat. Measure across the inside, from one inner edge to the other. Do not measure across the outside.
What does BCR or CBR mean?
BCR or CBR stands for Captive Bead Ring — a hoop closed by a small bead held in place by tension between the ring's open ends.
Shop by Type
• Hoops
• Labrets
• Barbells
• Tops