The vertical labret (also called a VCL) is architecturally distinct from every other lip piercing. Instead of passing through the skin into the mouth like a standard labret, it passes through the lower lip itself vertically, from the surface of the lip to the chin. Both ends of the curved barbell are visible on the face; nothing sits inside the mouth. This makes it unlike any other lip piercing: there is no internal disc, no gum contact risk, and the jewellery interacts entirely with the external tissue.
A vertical labret passes vertically through the lower lip: one end sits on the lip surface, the other exits below the lip at the chin. Both ends are visible on the face with no jewellery inside the mouth. It rates around 5/10 on pain, takes 6–9 months to heal, and uses a 16G curved barbell. It has a higher rejection risk than standard labrets.
How the Vertical Labret Differs from a Standard Labret
| Feature | Vertical Labret | Standard Labret |
|---|---|---|
| Needle path | Through the lower lip body (vertically) | Through the skin below the lower lip |
| Jewellery type | Curved barbell | Flat-back labret or ring |
| Internal disc | No — nothing inside the mouth | Yes — small disc against the gum |
| Gum recession risk | None | Possible if poorly fitted |
| Healing time | 6–9 months | 3–4 months |
| Rejection risk | Moderate (surface-adjacent) | Low |
| Visual effect | Both ends visible on face | One end visible; one inside mouth |
| Ring option (healed) | Not applicable | Yes |
Vertical Labret Pain Level
The vertical labret rates around 5/10 slightly higher than a standard labret because the needle passes through the full thickness of the lower lip, which contains more tissue and more muscle than the skin below the lip. The sensation is a sustained pressure as the needle works through the lip body, followed by a sharper exit point at the chin.
Vertical Labret Healing Time
Expect 6–9 months significantly longer than a standard labret. The lip is high-movement tissue: it moves with every word spoken, every meal eaten, every facial expression. This constant movement means the channel is subjected to repeated minor stress throughout healing.
| Stage | Timeline | Key notes |
|---|---|---|
| Initial | Weeks 1–6 | Visible swelling on both ends; lip tender; speak and eat carefully |
| Active | Months 2–4 | Swelling resolves; both ends settle but channel still forming |
| Maturing | Months 4–6 | Movement of lip tissue challenges stability; avoid snagging |
| Fully healed | 6–9 months | Channel mature; ready for jewellery change to shorter bar |
Vertical Labret Jewellery: Curved Barbell Only
The vertical labret can only be worn with a curved barbell the curve follows the natural contour of the lower lip. Straight barbells create pressure points; flat-back labrets are not applicable because there is no internal disc in this piercing.
Starter Jewellery
A 16G curved barbell, 10–12mm length in implant-grade titanium. Length is measured for your specific lip thickness and projection. Initial ends are simple ball or flat back ends; decorative ends are worn once healed.
Healed Jewellery
• Curved barbells with gem ends — the standard vertical labret look; both gems frame the lower lip above and below
• Curved barbells with opal ends — warm and iridescent; very popular
• Curved barbells with flat disc ends — minimal, modern
Browse: Barbells Collection
Rejection Risk: What to Watch For
The vertical labret's upper end sits on the surface of the lip similar to a surface piercing. This gives it a moderate rejection risk, particularly if:
• The jewellery is too short and creates constant pressure on the entry point
• The lip is bitten or hit repeatedly during healing
• The jewellery material is not implant-grade
Signs of rejection: the upper end sinking into the lip, the bar appearing longer, or the skin over the upper exit becoming thin and shiny. See your piercer immediately if you notice these signs.
Read more: Piercing Rejection: Signs, Causes and Prevention
Vertical Labret Aftercare
• External: saline spray twice daily — both the lip surface end and the chin end
• No internal mouthwash needed — unlike standard labrets, nothing is inside the mouth
• Be especially careful when eating — avoid foods that require large lip movement in the first month
• Avoid biting your lip — a common unconscious habit that causes trauma to the healing channel
• Avoid kissing during initial healing
Full guide: Body Piercing Aftercare
Frequently Asked Questions
How long does a vertical labret take to heal?
6–9 months significantly longer than a standard labret (3–4 months). The lip is high-movement tissue and the surface-adjacent upper end adds healing complexity.
Does a vertical labret go through the mouth?
No this is one of the key differences from a standard labret. The vertical labret passes through the lower lip body and exits below the lip at the chin. Nothing sits inside the mouth.
What size curved barbell for a vertical labret?
Most vertical labrets use 16G (1.2mm) curved barbells, 10–12mm in length. The curve must match the natural contour of your lower lip your piercer measures this precisely.
Is the vertical labret more painful than a standard labret?
Slightly around 5/10 vs 4/10. The needle passes through the full thickness of the lower lip body, which has more tissue and muscle than the skin below the lip.
Can a vertical labret reject?
Yes it has a moderate rejection risk due to the surface-adjacent upper end. Watch for the bar appearing longer, the skin thinning over the entry point, or the jewellery migrating. See your piercer at the first sign.