Five terms that mean different things
The gemstone industry uses terminology that confuses buyers, sometimes by accident and sometimes by design. 'Synthetic', 'lab-grown', 'created', 'simulant', and 'imitation' are five different terms with five different meanings but they're sometimes used interchangeably by inattentive sellers, and the distinctions matter for piercing jewellery shopping.
This guide clarifies each term, explains what category of material each refers to, and gives you the vocabulary to read product listings accurately. Once you know what each word actually means, premium gemstone shopping becomes much more transparent.
The five categories
Natural
A gemstone that formed in the earth through geological processes over thousands to billions of years. Mined from natural deposits. Examples in piercing jewellery: natural diamond, natural sapphire, natural ruby, natural opal, natural emerald.
• What it is: identical to lab-grown of the same type, but with geological history
• Pricing: highest tier for the same stone type
• Identification: typically requires gemological testing to definitively distinguish from lab-grown
• Marketing: 'natural', 'mined', sometimes with origin specified ('Burmese ruby', 'Ceylon sapphire')
Synthetic / Lab-grown / Created
These three terms refer to the same category: stones with the same chemical composition and crystal structure as natural stones, produced in controlled laboratory environments rather than in the earth. A synthetic sapphire is a real sapphire same Al₂O₃, same Mohs 9 hardness, same visual properties just made in a lab.
• What it is: real gemstone, identical to natural in all material properties
• Pricing: typically 25–60% of equivalent natural stones at similar quality
• Identification: lab-grown stones often have characteristic inclusion patterns under high magnification that differ from natural patterns; visually indistinguishable to the naked eye
• Marketing: 'synthetic', 'lab-grown', 'created', 'cultured', sometimes 'hothouse'
• Important note: 'synthetic' historically had negative connotations from older marketing; modern usage is neutral and accurate
Simulant
A different material that resembles a target gemstone visually but is not chemically the same. Cubic zirconia (CZ) and moissanite are diamond simulants — they look similar to diamond but are completely different materials (zirconium dioxide and silicon carbide respectively, not crystalline carbon).
• What it is: a different real gemstone or mineral chosen for its resemblance to a target stone
• Pricing: dramatically less than what they simulate (CZ is 1-5% of natural diamond cost)
• Identification: distinguishable from the simulated stone through specific tests (thermal conductivity for diamond simulants, refractive index measurement, etc.)
• Marketing: 'simulant', 'diamond-look', 'diamond alternative'; also sometimes marketed by the actual material name (CZ, moissanite, white sapphire)
• Important: a simulant is a real material in its own right, just not the material it imitates
Imitation / Fake / Costume
Glass, plastic, or other non-gemstone materials manufactured to look like gemstones. Has no claim to being the actual stone material in any sense. Quality varies dramatically: some imitations look reasonable from a distance; many look obviously fake on close inspection.
• What it is: glass, paste, plastic, or other non-gemstone material
• Pricing: very low (under €5 typically for the stone material in costume jewellery)
• Identification: usually visible on close inspection (different optical properties from real stones); definitively identifiable through hardness or thermal conductivity testing
• Marketing: 'crystal' (often), 'glass', 'fashion stone', sometimes deceptively as 'crystal diamond' or similar misleading terms
• Use in piercing jewellery: appropriate only for very inexpensive fashion pieces; not suitable for healing piercings (chemistry of glass and adhesives can cause irritation)
How to read product listings
The terminology checklist
Quality piercing sellers use precise terminology. A few examples of how to read product descriptions: 'Natural sapphire' = real natural sapphire (highest price tier). 'Lab-grown sapphire' / 'synthetic sapphire' / 'created sapphire' = real sapphire from a lab (medium price tier). 'White sapphire' = real natural or lab-grown colourless sapphire (sometimes used as diamond simulant; real gemstone in its own right). 'Cubic zirconia' / 'CZ' = real zirconium dioxide (diamond simulant; lower price tier). 'Crystal' or 'fashion crystal' = usually glass; not a real gemstone. 'Diamond-like' / 'diamond simulant' = could be CZ or moissanite or even glass; always check what specifically. Vague terminology ('crystal stone', 'gemstone-look', 'precious stone') usually means glass or low-quality material.
Specific stones and their lab/imitation equivalents
| Natural stone | Real lab-grown equivalent | Common simulants/imitations |
|---|---|---|
| Natural diamond | Lab-grown diamond | CZ, moissanite, white sapphire, glass |
| Natural sapphire (blue) | Lab-grown sapphire | Blue spinel, blue glass |
| Natural ruby | Lab-grown ruby | Red garnet, red glass |
| Natural emerald | Lab-grown emerald | Green tourmaline, green glass |
| Natural opal | Created opal (less common, lab-grown opal) | 'Opalite' (glass), plastic |
| Natural pearl | Cultured pearl | Glass pearls, plastic pearls, shell pearls |
| Natural aquamarine | Synthetic aquamarine (rare) | Blue topaz, blue glass |
Why this matters for piercing jewellery
Three practical reasons to understand these distinctions:
Pricing transparency
Understanding what category a stone is in tells you what reasonable pricing looks like. A 'sapphire' piercing piece at €25 cannot be a real natural or lab-grown sapphire — pricing doesn't work. It's either a sapphire simulant (often disclosed as such) or a glass imitation (often not disclosed). Knowing the categories lets you sanity-check prices.
Wear longevity
Real gemstones (natural or lab-grown) last essentially indefinitely in piercing wear. Simulants typically last 3-10+ years depending on type. Glass imitations often degrade within 1-2 years — cloudy surfaces, broken stones, loosened settings. The category tells you how long the piece will look good.
Skin safety
Glass imitations sometimes use adhesives or finishing chemicals that can cause irritation in healing or sensitive piercings. Real gemstones (natural or lab-grown) and quality simulants (CZ, moissanite) are typically inert and safe for piercings. Bottom-tier glass imitation pieces are not always appropriate for piercings even in healed positions.
How to verify what you have
If you've bought a piercing piece and aren't sure what category the stone falls into, options for verification:
• Check the receipt or listing for terminology — quality sellers state clearly
• Take to a local jeweller for thermal conductivity test (€5–10) — definitively distinguishes diamond and corundum (sapphire/ruby) from glass and most simulants
• Test refractive index — requires gemological equipment but provides definitive material identification
• Visual inspection under magnification — experienced eyes can often distinguish natural inclusions from glass bubbles or imitation flaws
• Compare against known reference pieces — if you have a confirmed real example, side-by-side comparison reveals differences
For most piercing-jewellery purchases, the seller's description and pricing are reliable signals. Verification is mainly relevant for premium pieces where you want certainty or for pieces with mysterious origins (gifts, inherited pieces, antique market finds).
Shop the look
• Hoops and clickers with stones
Internal links
• Advanced gemstones in piercing jewellery: complete guide
• Lab-grown vs natural diamonds
• Understanding gem quality in small stones
Frequently Asked Questions
What's the difference between synthetic and imitation gemstones?
Synthetic (also called lab-grown or created) gemstones are real gemstones with the same chemical composition and crystal structure as natural stones, but produced in a controlled laboratory environment rather than in the earth. A synthetic sapphire is a real sapphire. Imitation gemstones are different materials (typically glass or plastic) manufactured to look like the target stone. An imitation sapphire is glass made to look blue. The terminology distinction is critical for pricing and longevity decisions.
Is lab-grown the same as synthetic?
Yes, 'lab-grown', 'synthetic', and 'created' all refer to the same category: real gemstones produced in laboratories rather than mined from the earth. The chemical composition, crystal structure, hardness, and visual properties are identical to natural stones. The terminology has evolved: 'synthetic' was used historically and sometimes carried negative connotations; 'lab-grown' and 'created' are more recent neutral terms preferred in modern jewellery marketing. All three are technically interchangeable and refer to genuine gemstones.
Are diamond simulants the same as fake diamonds?
They're not strictly the same as 'fake diamonds' in a deceptive sense they're different real materials chosen for their resemblance to diamond. CZ is real cubic zirconia (zirconium dioxide); moissanite is real silicon carbide. Both are genuine gemstones in their own right, just not diamond. The term 'fake diamond' applies more accurately to deceptive sales of glass or low-quality material falsely described as diamond. Simulants sold as simulants (with clear labelling) are honest products; misrepresentation is the problem, not the simulant material itself.
How can I tell if a stone is glass or real gemstone?
Several methods. Visual inspection under magnification: real gemstones show characteristic optical properties (specific light return patterns, inclusion patterns); glass often shows bubbles, swirl marks, or unusually clean appearance. Thermal conductivity testing (jeweller, €5–10): definitively distinguishes diamond, sapphire, ruby from glass and most simulants. Hardness testing (cautious, can damage soft stones): glass scratches more easily than most real gemstones. Refractive index measurement (gemologist): definitive material identification. For most buyers, the listing description and pricing are reliable enough significantly cheap 'gemstones' are typically glass.
Is created opal real opal?
Created or synthetic opal is more complex than other lab-grown stones. True lab-grown opal does exist and is chemically and structurally similar to natural opal. However, much of what's sold as 'created opal' is actually opal-like material with opal silica spheres set in resin or another matrix visually similar but not chemically identical to natural opal. Read product descriptions carefully. 'Lab-grown opal' or 'synthetic opal' typically means the real material; 'created opal', 'opalite', or 'simulated opal' may mean the resin-matrix version. Both can look beautiful but they're different products at different price points.
Should I avoid synthetic gemstones in piercing jewellery?
No, synthetic (lab-grown) gemstones are real gemstones and perform identically to natural ones in piercing wear. The choice between synthetic and natural is about provenance and pricing, not about which is 'better'. Synthetic sapphires last as long as natural ones, with the same hardness and chemical stability. For most piercing jewellery buyers, lab-grown stones provide excellent value. Avoid imitation (glass) gemstones for any piercing wear longer than occasional fashion use those are different products with different (much shorter) wear longevity.
Why does the same gemstone cost so differently in different pieces?
Several factors determine pricing beyond just the stone type: natural vs lab-grown (significant difference), stone quality grade (cut, colour, clarity matter), stone size (non-linear relationship bigger costs more per carat), setting type and metal (solid gold significantly more expensive than PVD-coated titanium), brand and seller reputation, and provenance for natural stones (Kashmir sapphires, Burmese rubies command premium). Two 'sapphire' piercing pieces can legitimately differ by 5–10x in price reflecting these factors. Use the price as a signal of what category the stone likely falls into.